The most anonymous host city at the World Cup is rarely heard about in connection with anything other than football, and even then it's as the answer to one of those questions, where do Schalke 04 play?
Schalke are one of the best supported Bundesliga sides and have a 52,000-capacity stadium to match, though that figure is only around 48,000 for the World Cup. The AufSchalke Arena replaces the old Parkstadion that was used in the 1974 finals and the 1988 European Championship.
The problem is that Gelsenkirchen is about as anonymous a city as you can find and there is next to nothing to do except watch the football. There was considerable dissatisfaction with the decision of UEFA to play the 2004 Champions League final here, when Jose Mourinho's Porto beat Monaco.
The ground is worth it and Germany should play matches in a place with such a strong football tradition; but there are three or four better venues for a continental final in Germany alone.
If England do wind up here - it will be their quarter-final venue if they win their group and their last-16 game - then the good news is it will be a 4pm kick-off, 5pm local time, leaving plenty of time for the supporters to find somewhere more interesting to spend their evening. Such as Cologne, which is only an hour away.
Indeed the only late kick-off here is the second game of the tournament, when Poland play Ecuador. Neither side's fans will thank the authorities for billeting them here.
The most intriguing match is the clash of the dark horses, United States v Czech Republic, while Argentina will hope that their second game goes better than it did in 2002 when, again, they were in a group with one African side, played first, and two European ones. Portugal v Mexico should, if Group D runs to form, be a meeting between the top two.
The quarter-final here, meanwhile, draws from groups A to D. England v Argentina? Sweden v Portugal?
Schalke have finished fourth in the Bundesliga and have been consistent high-fliers in recent years. They were runners-up in 2001, when they missed out on the title by a point, thanks to an injury-time winner for Bayern Munich against Hamburg.
Friday 9 June, 8pm, Poland v Ecuador, Group A
Monday 12 June, 5pm, USA v Czech Republic, Group E
Friday 16 June, 2pm, Argentina v Serbia & Montenegro, Group C
Wednesday 21 June, 3pm, Portugal v Mexico, Group D
Saturday 1 July, 4pm, Quarter-final
GELSENKIRCHEN: THE BASICS - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN A NUTSHELL...
Getting Around
Compact Gelsenkirchen's pedestrianised centre is easy to get around on foot. Bogestra's extensive bus and tram network connects the centre to the stadium. You'll need a city centre ticket. Look out for tram 302, which links the centre to the FIFA Fan Fest, World Cup stadium and Buer district.
Single ticket (city centre) - Euro 2
Day ticket (city centre) - Euro 4.70
4 tickets (city centre) - Euro 6.90
Group ticket (5 people) - Euro 10.20
The Stadium
Gelsenkirchen VELTINS-Arena (53,804)
The city has poured a cool 191 (EURO) million into the state-of-the-art VELTINS-Arena, which opened its doors in 2001. Equipped with the latest technology, the World Cup stadium features a removable playing surface, giant video wall, retractable roof and electronic admission. Home team Schalke 04 have an impressive seven league titles to their name.
The World Cup stadium lies north of the city centre in the Buer district.
Get there from the Main Station
From Gelsenkirchen's Hauptbahnhof (main station), take tram 302 towards Buer Rathaus to VELTINS-Arena. The journey takes around 15 minutes.
Get there from the Airport
Düsseldorf International airport is the best bet. From here, trains take you to Gelsenkirchen in about 45 minutes. Tram 302 completes the journey to the stadium.
Another option is Dortmund Airport, home to low-cost airlines Easy Jet and Air Berlin. The onward journey involves three changes: take a bus to Holzwickede, followed by a train to Dortmund's main station, then S-Bahn S2 to Gelsenkirchen, and finally tram 302 to the stadium. The trip takes about an hour and a half.
Taxis from both airports charge roughly 70 (Euro) to Gelsenkirchen - a good option if you can split the costs.
Get there from the City Centre
Tram 302 links the city centre to the VELTINS-Arena in just 15 minutes.
TV Venues
Ticketless fans need not fret. With super-size screens showing the match, you'll have no problem keeping your eye on the ball. Join those glued to the big screen at Schalke Stadt, or find happiness in the bottom of a beer glass in one of the city's many sports bars.
Big Screens: Schalke Stadt
See the game on the giant screen at the FIFA Fan Fest Schalke-Stadt. Over 22,000 fans can watch the players battling it out on a giant video wall. Live music and entertainment make sure that the fun continues after the final whistle.
Central Sports Bar: Zutz
This buzzing sports bar in the central Rottmannsiepe is a top spot to watch the game on a big screen. At half time, try the local pils and bar snacks.
Live action: Fliegenpils
This sports bar on Hagenstrassenear the arena is a real find, with space for 150 fans, a giant screen and three smaller ones showing all 64 games. Open till 5am, expect late-night partying here after the match.
Where to Stay
World Cuphotels cluster around Gelsenkirchen's Hauptbahhof (main station) and the pedestrianised streets of Bahnhofstrasse and Hochstrasse. Early booking is essential, with the best places filling up fast. Gelsenkirchen's English-speaking booking service helps with advance reservations for World Cup hotels (+49 (0) 209 951 970).
Central Favourite: Ibis Gelsenkirchen
Two minutes from the main station, this World Cup hotel is central and good value. The 104 rooms, with private bathroom and TV, are clean and functional. Hotel facilities include Wi Fi access and a bar. Breakfast costs an extra ¿9.
Train Station: Hauptbahnhof
Address: Bahnhofsvorplatz 12, 45879 Gelsenkirchen
Phone: +49 (0) 209 17020
Rates: Doubles 47-51 (Euro)
Web: www.accorhotels.com
Pitch A Tent: Nordsternpark Campsite
Close to the stadium, this huge campsite is in the grounds of the Nordsternpark. Purpose-built for the FIFA World Cup, there's space for 2000 fans, with all the standard facilities and a young, lively vibe.
Bus Stop: Nordsternpark
Address: Am Bugapark, 45899 Gelsenkirchen
Phone: +49 (0) 209 951 970 (booking service)
Rates: 19 (Euro) per person
Web: www.fifawm2006.gelsenkirchen.de
Cheap Digs: Jugendherberge Essen
A 10-minute train ride from Gelsenkirchen, Essen is home to this youth hostel, sleeping 174 fans during the FIFA World Cup. Facilities include a bistro, barbecue area, TV room and table football. Rates include breakfast.
S-Bahn Stop: Essen-Werden
Address:
Pastoratsberg 2, 45239 Essen
Phone: +49 (0) 201 49 11 63
Rates: Dorm 19.80 (Euro); double 24.90(Euro) per person; single 30 (Euro)
Web: www.jugendherberge.de/jh/essen
Where to Go
Gelsenkirchen is just a stone's throw from Dortmund's famous breweries. Rolling out the barrel for the World Cup, hop-thirsty fans can put on their beer goggles and test out the local brews in the city centre and the Buer district. For starters, try a refreshing Pilsner, dark Alt beer or Kölsch lager.
Best local brews: Brauhaus Hibernia
Drink beside gleaming copper barrels at this popular brewpub (Bahnhofsvorplatz 2) in the centre of town. Try one of their own brews, such as light-flavoured Grubengold or full-bodied Ruhr Pott - available by the glass or in 10-litre barrels.
Pre-game beer: Der Schalker
Right next to the stadium, this football-crazy bar and bistro (Kurt-Schumacher-Strasse 284a) is a winner. Enjoy a draught beer or two before or after the game in the spacious beer garden. If you're hungry, lunch here is good value.
Party place: Alte Hütte
Dance the night away at Gelsenkirchen's liveliest club (Middelicher Strasse 187), where DJs spin tunes till dawn and drinks are cheap. Beer lovers should order a laufende Meter - 16 glasses of beer stretching a metre long.
Ruhrpott specialities are calorie-rich and proud of it. Try the Bergmannspfanne (pork knuckles drenched in beer sauce), Schweineschnitzel mit Rahmchampignons (pork schnitzel in mushroom cream sauce), or Currywurst mit Pommes (curried sausage and chips). Pretty much everything comes with a large dollop of sauerkraut and potato salad. Numerous international restaurants offer an alternative to the local favourites.
Trendy Tastes Kronski
This trendy bar-cum-restaurant in Gelsenkirchen's market hall (Springemarkt 2) serves great food at fair prices and has a party vibe. If your stomach is up to it, you can dance till late to funky house and Latino grooves.
Fine Flavours: zum Bürgerplatz
This smart bistro (Trinenkamp 22) is among Gelsenkirchen's best-kept secrets, with reasonable prices and a creative menu. Eat from the barbecue in the beer garden, or feast on specialities like French onion soup and succulent Wiener Schnitzel.
Taste of Tuscany: La Vecchia Osteria
Near the stadium, this cave-like Italian taverna (Horster Strasse 10) is all wood beams and exposed brickwork. The friendly staff serve delicious pasta and seafood. In summer you can eat on the terrace beneath the olive trees.
Philip Cornwall
