In western Germany, near the French border, Kaiserslautern used to be able to count on 1998 World Cup winner Youri Djorkaeff to turn out for the local side. Perhaps appropriate in the Fritz-Walter Stadion, named after the captain of West Germany's 1954 winning side. The capacity is around 39,000 for the World Cup.
Djorkaeff was in the home team when Tottenham's last European adventure ended here in bizarre fashion, in the UEFA Cup second round in 1999. After winning the home game 1-0, they were ahead in the tie till the 89th minute, when Kaiserslautern equalised. Stephen Carr then scored an own goal in added time and Spurs went out 2-1 on aggregate.
The big match here in the group stage is Italy v USA, the game that had the Italians howling about the draw being fixed. English eyes will, you have to hope, not be interested in Paraguay v Trinidad, as with luck that game will simply be a battle for third and fourth.
The last-16 game should be Italy v Croatia, but Italy's place especially is a matter for considerable debate.
Mon 12 June, 2pm, Australia v Japan, Group F
Saturday 17 June, 5pm, Italy v USA, Group E
Tuesday 20 June, Paraguay v Trinidad & Tobago, Group B
Friday 23 June, 3pm, Saudi Arabia v Spain, Group H
Monday 26 June, 4pm, Winner Group E v Runner-up Group F
KAISERSLAUTERN: THE BASICS - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN A NUTSHELL...
Getting Around
Getting around in Kaiserslautern couldn't be easier. The city is small enough to walk pretty much everywhere, while an extensive bus network connects most areas with the centre. A ticket for "Zone 1" gets you everywhere and is valid for one hour, but don't forget to validate it when boarding a bus. At weekends a night bus service runs every hour from midnight.
Single ticket - 1.70 (Euro)
Day ticket (zones AB) - 4 (Euro)
7-day ticket (zones AB) - 14 (Euro)
The Stadium
Fritz-Walter-Stadion (48,500)
Although the World Cup stadium is officially known as the Fritz-Walter-Stadion, no one ever uses the name. "Betze" is what the fans call the ground, located on the top of the city's Betzenberg hill. Revamped for the World Cup 2006, the legendary venue has more space and brand-new floodlights.
"The red devils of the Betzenberg", as Kaiserslautern's home club 1.FCK is affectionately known, can rely on some of the country's noisiest fans, responsible for making this something of a feared ground for visiting teams.
The World Cup stadium lies to the south of Kaiserslautern. You can see the ground from the train station: simply walk there or take the free shuttle bus.
Get there from the Main Station:
Walk there in 10 minutes: take the pedestrian subway underneath the tracks and a winding street leads you to the ground. Betzenberg hill is neither very high nor very steep, but if you prefer being carried, catch public bus line 2.
Get there from the Airport:
Kaiserslautern itself doesn't have an airport. If you're arriving by air, Frankfurt International is your best bet, from where a train takes you to Kaiserslautern in about an hour and a half.
If you choose little sister Frankfurt Hahn, home to the low-cost airlines, you have to take a bus to Frankfurt, Mainz or Bingen, before switching to the train.
Small Saarbrücken Airport, in the west, is another option. A train takes you from here to Kaiserslautern in about an hour.
Get there from the City Centre
Every two hours, free shuttle buses run to the stadium from the central Messeplatz or Meuthstrasse parking lots.
TV Venues
Don't despair if you couldn't get hold of tickets. Giant screens on and around Stiftsplatz square cover all action on the pitch and plenty of cold beer and tasty food are on offer throughout the city. Join Kaiserslautern's football-mad locals for what is sure to be a wild party.
Party Time: Stiftsplatz
Kaiserslautern's main square, located in the Old Town, is party central during the World Cup, featuring a huge screen and a busy stage for music, dance and comedy.
Footie Pub: Cafe Central
Head to Kaiserslautern's prime sports bar and drinking favourite, Cafe Central (Schillerstrasse 10), and enjoy beer or cocktails in front of an almighty screen.
Miles Of Fun: Fan Area
Just pop out of the train station and you're standing in front of the first screen - Kaiserslautern's dedicated Fan Area. A food-lined Fan Mile stretches from here all the way to the main party at Stiftsplatz.
Where to Stay
Book your World Cup hotel, or choose from hundreds of hostels and private rooms in the surrounding area. If the city's own Fan Camp is fully-booked, try the huge Fan Project (www.fanproject2006.com) camping ground in nearby Mendig. The Kaiserslautern tourist office helps with advance World Cup hotel bookings (+49 (0) 631 365 2317).
Nature Lovers: Wald-Jugendherberge Hochspeyer
Located in the Pfälzerwald forest, Kaiserslautern's only youth hostel is the perfect choice for FIFA World cup fans, with outdoor sports and barbecue facilities. A train to the city takes just half an hour.
Train Station: Hochspeyer
Address: Trippstadter Straße 150, 67691 Hochspeyer
Phone: +49 (0) 63 05 336
Rates: 13.50 - 21 (Euro)
Web: www.jugendherberge.de
Prime Location: Fan Camp
Be quick and try to snatch a place at Kaiserslautern's FIFA World Cup camping ground, right next to the stadium. You can pitch your own tent or book a place in a communal one.
Train Station: Bahnhof
Address: near Fritz-Walter-Stadion
Phone: +49 (0) 631 365 2006
Rates: to be confirmed
Web: www.kaiserslautern.de/wm2006
Sleep In Style: Dorint Novotel Kaiserslautern
Situated at the bottom of the Betzenberg hill, just 500 metres south of the stadium, this stylish World Cup hotel is as convenient as it gets. Modern rooms feature air-conditioning, satellite TV and wireless internet.
Train Station: Bahnhof
Address: St Quentin Ring 1, 67663 Kaiserslautern
Phone: +49 (0) 631 201 50
Rates: 59.50 - 104 (Euro)
Web: www.novotel.com
Where to Go
You won't have trouble finding German beer in all its variety in Kaiserslautern. Most pubs and bars cluster in the centre and the Old Town. The locals' favourite brew is the endlessly refreshing Pils, but if you fancy drinking in true Palatinate style, go for the region's delicious home-grown wines.
Pre-game beer: Hannenfass
Get ready for the match outside the friendly Hannenfass pub on Martinsplatz square. After a few Alt or Pils beers the walk to the stadium will seem much shorter...
Late-night partying: Blue Eye
Kaiserslautern's party crowd fills the Blue Eye club (Burgstrasse 21), where drinks are cheap and DJs spin R'n'B and dance tunes until late in the night.
Chill out: Copacabana
Exhausted? Relax with exotic cocktails underneath the indoor palms at Copacabana (Lutrinastrasse 2-4), close
to the train station. A friendly crowd and Latin-American sounds make it a winner.
You have to be brave! The region's specialities are Saumagen (pig's stomach), usually stuffed with potatoes, and the equally daunting Pferdewurst (horsemeat sausage), a stadium favourite. If that sounds a little too adventurous, don't worry - fans in Kaiserslautern have a great appetite for chips and burgers too.
Old World: Das Spinnrädl
Eat a bowl of freshly-made soup or a hearty goulash at this cosy tavern, located in Kaiserslautern's oldest timber-framed building (Schillerstrasse 1). Portions are big and prices reasonable.
Curry Fever: India Palace
In the heart of the city, this friendly restaurant (Grüner Graben 21) offers reasonably-priced curries, Tandoori dishes and other Indian treats in authentic curry house surroundings.
Meal With A View: 21 lounge
For a stylish meal, take the elevator to the 21st floor of Kaiserslautern's high-rise town hall (Willy-Brandt-Platz 1) and tuck in to Asian-style fusion cuisine while gazing out over the city.
Philip Cornwall
