If there's any place in Germany where "not mentioning the war" is impossible it's Nuremburg. Try playing a word association game and not coming up with the obvious.
The home of the post-war trials, the city that gave its name to the anti-semitic laws of 1935, the scene of so many Nazi parades and conventions and Hitler speeches. It was its Nazi past that made its Palace of Justice the appropriate place to bring Goerring, Hess, Speer and others to court.
Even The Guardian, in a football round-up, could not resist making mention of Bayern Munich hanging on for a 3-2 win after "surviving a late Nuremburg rally".
The ground being used for the World Cup was built in 1928, just before the Nazis came to power, and was used for Hitler Youth marches a few years later. It's surrounded by what was left of the grounds where Hitler spoke to crowds of a quarter of a million.
What many English people, those who edit and read tabloids especially, don't seem to get is that Germany has come to terms with its past far better than we have; it doesn't live there any more.
While Nazism and its symbols are suitable subjects for comedy in the UK, any England fans, here for the match against Trinidad & Tobago, who decide to do their Basil Fawlty impression will be arrested because the Hitler salute, like the swastika, is a serious matter.
Visiting the city's homepage, in English or German, in early May, the first or second link was for an exhibition that charts the role of Nuremburg and the surrounding Franconia region in Hitler's rise to power. There's no need to mention the war because they know all about it - rather more, in all probability, than the visitors do.
Instead of fixating on such a narrow part of the city's heritage, visitors would be better advised to enjoy a rebuilt, modern city of 500,000 people that while being open about its darkest hour, is keen to advertise what it was before 1933 and what it has now become.
The rebuilt Frankenstadion, meanwhile, is home of 1.FC Nurnburg. Alas, a few cracks emerged in the concrete but it is hoped that all will be fine in the 36,000-capacity venue, which has just seen a mid-table finish for the home team, a slight improvement on last season when relegation was avoided by three points. Their ground, alas, has been rebranded the easyCredit Stadion.
All the group matches here are bits-and-pieces games, all involving the fourth favourites in a group, though Ghana v United States could be vital if either has pulled off a shock against group-mates Czech Republic and Italy. The last-16 match could see Mexico or Portugal take on Holland or Argentina.
Sunday 11 June, 5pm, Mexico v Iran, Group D
Thursday 15 June, 5pm, England v Trinidad & Tobago, Group B
Sunday 18 June, 2pm, Japan v Croatia, Group F
Thursday 22 June, 8pm, Ghana v USA, Group E
Sunday 25 June, 8pm, Winner Group D v Runner-up Group C
NURNBERG: THE BASICS - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN A NUTSHELL...
Getting Around
Good public transport connections mean that it's easy to get around. Nuremberg's underground and S-Bahn trains take you everywhere in the city. Buy a Zone 2 ticket from stations or machines and validate it when you board - it's valid for 90 minutes.
Single ticket (Zone 2) - 1.80 (Euro)
Day ticket (Zone 2) - 3.60 (Euro)
7-day MobiCard (Zone 2) - 16.30 (Euro)
The Stadium
Frankenstadion (45,000)
Opened in 1928, Nuremberg's World cup stadium, Frankenstadion has had a 56 million (Euro) facelift for the World Cup 2006. Bigger and better than before, the ground is home to 1. FC Nürnberg, who have won the Bundesliga nine times, but not since 1968.
The World Cup stadium lies south-east of the city centre. S-Bahn (train) line S2 will take you there in 10 minutes.
Get there from the Main Station
Take the S-Bahn (train) line S2 from the Hauptbahnhof (main station) tp the Frankenstadion stop.
Get there from the Airport
Nuremberg Airport, north of the city, is a 10-minute underground journey from the centre. Take U2 to Hauptbahnhof, and then change to S2. Get off at Frankenstadion.
Get there from the City Centre
From Plärrer, in the Old Town, take underground line U1, or from Rathenauplatz take U8, both to Hauptbahnhof. Then take S2 to Frankenstadion.
TV Venues
Don't despair if you can't get tickets - you could join the crowds at Nuremberg's huge Fan-Fest on Volksfestplatz, try a shady beer garden or any of the city's small, atmospheric pubs.
Fan-Fest: Volksfestplatz
Nuremberg's big screen brings the action to the Volksfestplatz square, a 10-minute walk from the stadium, with facilities including a Franconian beer village and wine tent.
Lakeside Kick-off: Strandcafé Wanner
Grab a deckchair or cushion and watch the match with a like-minded crowd in this lovely beer garden on the shores of the Dutzendteich Lake.
Footie Local: Pilsbar Abseitz
This small pub on Humbodtstrasse is crazy about football and is the perfect spot to watch the match with Nuremberg's locals.
Where to Stay
World Cup hotels cluster around the train station and historic centre. If you don't mind sharing rooms, hostels are a safe bet, and Nuremberg's prime camping ground is conveniently located next to the stadium. Early booking is essential; Nuremburg's tourist office helps with World Cup hotel reservations (+49 (0) 911 2336 121).
Sleeping Beauty: Jugendherberge Nürnberg
Sleep in a castle! North of the Old Town, Nuremburg's modern youth hostel has 309 dorm beds with great views over the city centre.
U-Bahn Station: Lorenzkirche
Address: Burg 2, 90403 Nürnberg
Phone: +49 (0) 911 230 9360
Rates: 18.90 - 26.50 (Euro)
Web: www.jugendherberge.de/jh/nuernberg
Clever Camping: Knaus Campingpark Nürnberg
Just 10 minutes' walk from the FIFA World Cup stadium, this well-equipped campsite, surrounded by lush forest and near the public swimming pool, is a winner.
S-Bahn Station: Frankenstadion
Address: Hans-Kalb-Str. 56, 90471 Nürnberg
Phone: +49 (0) 911 981 2717
Rates: 11 (Euro)
Web: www.knauscamp.de/nuern/nuern_index.htm
Central Digs: Hotel Maritim
Next to the main train station and just a short walk from Nuremburg's Old Town, this vast hotel with all mod cons is a perfect base.
U-Bahn Station: Hauptbahnhof
Address: Frauentorgraben 11, 90443 Nürnberg
Phone: +49 (0) 911 236 30
Rates: single 99 - 259 (Euro); double 126 - 308 (Euro)
Web: www.maritim.de
Where to Go
Beer is big business here - Franconia proudly boasts the world's highest density of breweries. Try one of nearly 300 home-brewed, often unfiltered beer varieties, or settle for Bavarian Weissbier. Most pubs and bars cluster in the historic centre.
Beach party: Danner's Club
Sip cocktails at Danner's Club's sandy beach (on Kurt-Schmittpeter-Weg), a stone's throw from
the stadium, with real palms and beach volleyball.
Pre-game beer: Max-Morlock-Platz
Outside the stadium, this tree-shaded, brand-new beer garden is perfect for a pre-game beer. Pop next door to the Max-Morlock-Stuben for a bite to eat.
Late-night partying: Zoom
Dance your socks off at Zoom (Frankenstrasse), set in old military barracks, with techno tunes to fuel the after-match partying.
Don't leave Nuremberg without trying the Nürnberger Rostbratwurst sausage. The city's best-loved speciality is protected by EU law and best enjoyed in a bun with mustard. Then try a slice of Nürnberger Lebkuchen, the city's world-famous gingerbread.
Al-fresco fish: Silberne Kanne
Fresh fish fillets and oven-baked trout are on the menu at this restaurant and beer garden on Breitscheidstrasse 15, close to the station, where diners sit beneath overhanging chestnut trees.
Cellar meal: Barfüsser
Tuck into hearty Schweinebraten roast, Franconian soups or traditional Eisbein (pork knuckles) at cellar restaurant Barfüsser (Hallplatz 2).
Sausage affairs: Bratwurst-Röslein
Enjoy your Nürnberger at Bratwurst-Röslein on central Rathausplatz square, which proudly claims to be the world's largest sausage restaurant. Tables are big, prices fair and the sausages succulent.
Philip Cornwall
