Eighteen years ago, one of the great upsets in England's history occurred at the Neckar Stadion in Stuttgart. Jack Charlton's Republic of Ireland won 1-0, through Ray Houghton's goal, on a day when Bobby Robson's side did everything but score. So began a disastrous trip to Germany; can that memory be expunged in 2006?
If England can win their group, then they will fetch up in this south-western city for their last-16 game, against the runners-up from Group A. Which would probably be Germany or Poland, unless there's a major shock there.
The bad news is that the 47,000-capacity ground has an athletics track between the stands and the pitch. The worse news is that the Neckar staged the 1993 World Athletics Championships and if England do play here then someone on some TV station will ask Sally Gunnell about her experiences breaking the world record in winning gold in the 400m hurdles.
Before that last-16 tie, the Gottlieb-Daimler-Stadion, as it's now known, will have played host to some other crucial clashes. France v Switzerland could settle the nerves of a France team who have struggled for form of late. Holland v Ivory Coast will see Didier Drogba and Arjen Robben find out what it's like to have such a charming opponent. Spain should beat Tunisia, though Spain are more prone to embarrassing exits than England so will take nothing for granted. Croatia v Australia represents the Aussies' biggest chance of an upset. If they've beaten Japan in game one then they will have everything to play for.
The last match here is the so-near-and-yet-so-far affair that is the third-place play-off.
Vfb Stuttgart have finished mid-table in the Bundesliga this season. They've won the title four times, most recently in 1992, when they went on to play Leeds in a famously disputed European Cup tie, that had to be settled in a replay because the Germans fielded an ineligible player.
Tuesday 13 June, 5pm, France v Switzerland, Group G
Friday 16 June, 5pm, Holland v Ivory Coast, Group C
Monday 19 June, 8pm, Spain v Tunisia, Group H
Thursday 22 June, 8pm, Croatia v Australia, Group F
Sunday 25 June, 4pm, Winner Group B v Runner-up Group A
Saturday 8 July, 8pm, Third-fourth play-off
STUTTGART: THE BASICS - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN A NUTSHELL...
Getting Around
Tickets sold at S-Bahn (train) and U-Bahn (underground) stations cover Stuttgart's entire VVS network of trains, trams and buses. Make sure you validate your ticket before travel.
Stuttgart has seven fare zones. A two-zone ticket is all you'll need for travel between the city centre (in zone 1) and the stadium (in zone 2).
Single ticket (2 zones) - 2.50 (Euro)
Day ticket (2 zones) - 5 (Euro)
7-day ticket (2 zones) - 19.50 (Euro)
The Stadium
Stuttgart Gottlieb Daimler Stadium (53,200)
A cool 51.5 million Euros has revamped Stuttgart's Gottlieb Daimler Stadium for the tournament, with new seats, better floodlights and Europe's biggest video screens - each weighing 11 tons.
The stadium is home to VfB Stuttgart, one of the Bundesliga's leading clubs. Famous past players include Hansi Müller and former Tottenham striker Jürgen Klinsmann.
Getting to the Stadium
Just a couple of stops from the city centre, the World Cup stadium lies to the north-east of Stuttgart , a five-minute walk from its own underground station.
Get there from the Main Station
From the Hauptbahnhof (main station) take S-Bahn train S1 towards Plochingen and get off at the Gottlieb Daimler Stadium. The direct journey takes seven minutes.
Get there from the Airport
West of the centre, Stuttgart Airport is a major hub for international flights. From here, take S-Bahn train S3 to Rohr, then change to S-Bahn train S1 towards Plochingen for Gottlieb Daimler Stadium. The journey takes around 45 minutes. Taxis stop in front of terminals 1 and 3, and charge around 30 (Euro) to go the stadium or city centre.
Get there from the City Centre
From central Schlossplatz, take U-Bahn (underground) line U5 towards Mönchfeld, then change at the Hauptbahnhof (main station) for S-Bahn train S1 to Gottlieb Daimler Stadium. The trip takes 15 minutes.
TV Venues
Even if you don't have a ticket, there's no reason to miss the match. Join the crowds in front of the big screen on Am Schlossplatz square, or squeeze into one of the city's lively sports bars to enjoy the game over a beer.
Giant Screens: Am Schlossplatz
Look out for the baroque Neue Schloss (new palace) and you know you've reached Am Schlossplatz. This sprawling, central square is showing all 64 games on four huge screens.
Footie Favourite: Ackermanns
Open till 2am, this bustling sports bar on Bebelstrasse has two big screens and plenty of room, with local brews on tap and 100 different types of whisky.
Best for Brits: Classic Rock Café
You won't miss anything on the five-metre monster of a screen at this funky rock café on Eberhardstrasse in central Stuttgart. Brits get a warm welcome at this English-speaking bar, which seats 500, with late-night partying after the match.
Where to Stay
If you want to be close to the fun, check out Stuttgart's World Cup hotels and budget hostels in the central Mitte district. Make sure you book ahead for the FIFA World Cup, as the best places fill up fast. If you're a fan of the great outdoors, pitch a tent at the campsite near the stadium. Stuttgart tourist office helps with advance World Cup hotel bookings (+49 (0) 711 22 28 233).
Huge Hostel: Jugendherberge Stuttgart
Good value and central, this decent hostel, 15 minutes from the stadium,has been kicked into shape for the FIFA World Cup, with space for 300 fans in two- to four-bed dorms. Most importantly, there's a big screen showing all 64 games.
U-Bahn Station: Staatsgalerie
Address: Haußmannstrasse 27, 70188 Stuttgart
Phone: +49 (0) 711 24 15 83
Rates: 23.30 (Euro); under 26s dorm bed 20.30 (Euro)
Web: www.jugendherberge-stuttgart.de
Near The Stadium: Camping Platz Stuttgart
Right near the stadium in the Cannstatter Wasen district, this campsite beside the River Neckar is a top budget option. There's plenty of hot water, a laundry, a shop and a bistro.
U-Bahn Station: Mercedesstrasse
Address: Mercedesstrasse 40, 70372 Stuttgart
Phone: +49 (0) 711 55 66 96
Rates: 5 (Euro) per person; tent 3.10 - 4.10 (Euro); caravan 5.50 (Euro)
Web: www.campingplatz-stuttgart.de
Central Hotel: Hotel Garni Rieker
This central, English-speaking World Cup hotel is the perfect place to kick back. The 65 rooms have comfy beds, minibars and cable TV. Room rates include a substantial breakfast, there's a 24-hour reception and even bike rental.
Train Station: Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)
Address: Friedrichstrasse 3, 70174 Stuttgart
Phone: +49 (0) 711 22 13 11
Rates: Singles from 70 (Euro); doubles from 90 (
Euro)
Web: www.hotel-rieker.de
Where to Go
Stuttgart has beer on the brain. Local lagers include tangy, medium-bodied Dinkelacker, smooth Schwaben Bräu and pale gold Stuttgarter Hofbräu. Party till late in lively Charlottenplatz and arty Friedrichstrasse, or seek out the best live music and clubs in Hauptstätter Strasse and Calwer Strasse.
Late-night partying: Mash
Minimalist and trendy Mash (Forststrasse7) rocks by night, with top DJs spinning tunes, Mash beer and 70 cocktails to choose from. Make your own Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizza) in the restaurant, chill on the terrace, or catch the latest Latino grooves in the lounge.
Tasty homebrews: Sophie's Brauhaus
As Swabian as they come, this friendly brewpub in central Stuttgart (Marienstrasse 28) has a laid-back vibe. It serves homebrews such as dry Blonde Sophie and dark SchwarzBier, with tasty Wurstsalat (sausage salad) and Weißwürste (white sausages).
Very British pub: Old Ascot
England fans will feel right at home in this cosy wood-beamed pub (Königstrasse 5), with a true British feel. One of Stuttgart's oldest pubs, it' a great spot to enjoy local beers, golden oldies and bar snacks. The terrace comes alive in summer.
Stuttgart prides itself on hearty Swabian dishes - most of which are regional takes on pasta. Tuck into savoury Kässpätzle (cheese noodles), filling Maultaschen (ravioli) or Schupfnudeln (potato noodles) wiith sauerkraut. If you fancy something spicy, international restaurants all over town serve up everything from sushi to red-hot curries.
Hot Mexican Bites: Cantina
Tasty tacos and late-night salsa are on the menu at Cantina (Schellingstrasse 7). This upbeat restaurant draws a young crowd with its fiery Mexican specialities, washed back with tequila or potent Coco Loco cocktails.
Swabian Style: Tauberquelle
This smart bistro (Torstrasse 19) near the Rathaus (town hall) serves Swabian staples like Flädlesuppe (pancake soup). It has a large beer garden, fair prices and a no-nonsense menu (available in English).
Local Favourite: Stuttgarter Ratskellar
In a great location overlooking the market square, the Stuttgarter Ratskellar (Marktplatz 1) is popular but not overpriced. The menu is Swabian with a Mediterranean twist, while the chic, minimalist bar serves 160 different varieties of wine.
Philip Cornwall
